It was early June in 2025 and we pulled our 10 year old kid out of school to show her the land of two of her her grandparents: The Netherlands. What does a 10 year old with her parents (one being a craft beer “participant”) do during their trip to the Netherlands? Read on.
Itinerary
We spent over 10 days in the Netherlands, visiting the following cities (day trips in brackets).
Day one in Amsterdam: Jordaan and Western Canal Belt
After a pleasant flight across the Atlantic on KLM, we landed at around 11 a.m. at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. Getting through passport control took no more than 5 minutes, and baggage hit the carousel quickly.
From there, we hit the train that took us to Amsterdam Centraal. Frequency is fantastic, and you can sit in 2nd/regular class with a tap on/off of your credit card. In Amsterdam Schiphol, there are stands you can tap on before you descend down to the tracks below. If you have a child in tow they will need their own method of payment (i.e. you’ll need a second credit card) if looking to travel this way.
The train was fairly empty and we were in central Amsterdam within 30 minutes. Exiting the station (tap your credit card again to get out) takes you into the minor chaos that is the outside of Amsterdam Centraal. You basically want to get away from that area as soon as you can (it’s not unsafe – just unpleasant).
We headed west and met up with the Singel, strolling south along the canal on our way to our hotel.
Hotel NH City Centre Amsterdam
We secured four nights at Hotel NH City Centre Amsterdam, booking months in advance. The location is fantastic, making pretty much everything you want to do in Amsterdam accessible on foot. It’s also close to Roken subway station – and super close to tram lines (2, 12 and 17)- if that’s your preferred method of getting around.
The Superior room (for three) was clean and comfortable, but not large by any means. It was also quite expensive. All said though, it was in a highly desirable location for tourists so this is to be expected.
The hotel offers a breakfast buffet for what became a crazy price once converted to Canadian dollars. We’re not huge eaters so this made no sense. Instead we opted for take out bakery goods for some of our morning eats.
One nice touch is they offer drinks (including beer and wine) and snacks at all hours of the day and night (for a price, of course) – so if you’re aching for a beer to take to your room you don’t need to leave the hotel. The rooms are modernized for charging your various devices – including a couple of USB outlets.
We were able to snag our room well before the 3 p.m. check-in time which was super helpful. After quick showers we headed out to get some cash – and for a bite to eat. On the former point, finding a bank or a Geldmaat is the way to go to avoid paying unnecessary fees when taking out money.
Spanjer en van Twist
With a Chilean in our crew, we wanted to check out Spanjer en van Twist which offers a mix of Chilean dishes along with a range of non-Chilean items (including a few Dutch snacks).
It’s located along Leliegracht, and offers outdoor seating along the canal. It was a tad chilly, so we opted to sit inside, where there’s two levels of seating. It’s got a nice cozy vibe inside and the staff are super pleasant.
This was a great first stop. The tired crew didn’t finish everything despite being super hungry (i.e. portions were solid), and this writer got his first taste of beer on Dutch soil in over 20 years.
The adults both has Churrascos which were good but you need to be a mayonnaise lover for sure. I figure this sandwich may have been the ultimate meeting of two cultures that love mayo. The little one had an empanada.
Nearby there is a dutch licorice (drop – or as this writer called it as a kid “druppies”) that we promised our little one that we would hit.
Het Oud-Hollandsch Snoepwinkeltje
Het Oud-Hollandsch Snoepwinkeltje is a fairly small store (maximum four people at a time – you will find out) with all licorice behind the counter. A vast assortment of flavours and styles await. We secured two mint drop styles for the little one. Both received good reviews from our child.
Café Kalkhoven
We were in need of a washroom and this bar was on our list to hit up if in the vicinity. The draft list consists of macro and a few micro brews. The is one of oldest brown cafes in Amsterdam. It has the vibe for sure. We didn’t eat so can’t comment on the food – but I wouldn’t seek this bar out for the draft list. That said, it’s not a craft beer bar so fair is fair. Service was good at the beginning but we had to walk to the bar to pay our bill as the server was MIA after that.
Oh, and we were told no children were allowed in the bar area – only on the more restaurant-side. That’s one we would never get ‘back home’ in Toronto.
A short walk from there led it to a canal walk that was on our list: the Bloemgracht.
Bloemgracht
We wandered along Bloemgracht: Full of bikes, boats and styled tree trunks.
Sterk Amsterdam
Construction led us a bit further than intended when walking back to our hotel from Bloemgracht. That was not a bad thing by any means because we then ended up right at Sterk Amsterdam. Yes, you can get various baked goods (which became breakfast for the next day) and other things but really the star of the show is the beer. Walls of craft beer – including in a walk-in fridge. This writer did not know where to start. I picked up a mix of New England IPAs as well as a coffee stout and gose. Speaking with the friendly guy working there, I found out they bring in new beers every week – in small quantities. When he found out I was from Toronto the response was “ah, the six” – Thanks, Drake.
From there we wandered back to the hotel. The little one was looking to take a break but the parents still wanted to hang out. Once we hit the hotel, however, the roles reversed with the parents crashing and the kid looking for something to do.
Day two in Amsterdam: Museum District and De Pijp
Breakfast this morning was quick and easy – baked goods we picked up from Sterk Amsterdam the day prior. That may have been a good thing because it was a super rainy morning so, after eating, we jumped on the tram to get to the Van Gogh Museum.
Visits are via timed tickets purchased in advance. We arrived at 10:30 a.m. to very little line. After a quick scan of our tickets we were in. They provide self-serve lockers free of charge. Simply input a number+symbol code to open the locker – and then again to retrieve your items. If you think you will remember what your symbol was based on where it was located on the selection of symbols, that won’t help you later on as they rotate the location of the symbols. Let’s just say this writer had to do some extra thinking to retrieve his belongings.
The Van Gogh Museum was well worth the visit – even if you don’t have a huge interest in art. I don’t have too much to say other than that. The “guest” exhibit was quite interesting as well. It was works by Nigerian artist John Madu, who produced works inspired by paintings by Vincent van Gogh.
We underfed ourselves for breakfast so stopped in at one of the museum cafes for a coffee, beer, bitterballen, fries and some apple pie. Those may not all go together but so be it – it worked. With that, we had the energy to continue on with our day, passing by The Royal Concertgebouw along the way.
Albert Cuypmarkt
A 15 minute walk into De Pijp, and we arrived at the outdoor street market, Albert Cuypmarkt. It extends multiple blocks and is contains of a variety of stalls. Just wandering through is worth the visit in the opinion of this writer. If you’re up for some shopping or street eats then you’ll enjoy it even more.
Walking north a few minutes, we intended to hit up Spaghetteria but they had yet to open. When you can’t eat pasta what do you do? Hit up a craft beer bar, of course.
Café Gollem (Gollem De Pijp)
Café Gollem (there are more then one in Amsterdam – this one being in De Pijp) opened up at 2 and we arrived not much after. The place was empty upon arrival, but filled up quite quickly. They have a sold variety of draft and bottled/canned beers.
We saddled up on stools along the window and people watched a bit (as the rain came down) while enjoying new-to-us brews. Bonus (maybe): There’s a cat that does the same along the window. “Amber” mostly sleeps but sometimes navigates the bar along the wall to get some water. The bartender had a bit of that “Dutch directness” happening, which can catch you off guard, but we seemed to be friends by the end of our stay.
Full of beverages, the walk continued – and by this point the rainy day had turned into a decent one with the sun out. It’s was truly a Dutch weather day.
Albert Hejn
As we headed back to the hotel, we stopped in at our our first Albert Heijn. If you spend any time in the Netherlands you cannot escape this small-format (in the cities, at least) grocery/drug store. If you’re Canadian, this writer compares it to Shopper’s Drug Mart but with much more focus on groceries. I think that thinking is due to how available they are in cities in the Netherlands – a la Shoppers in Canada. At this writing, there’s no recollection of what was purchased but there is a decent selection of Dutch craft beers so at least a couple of those were likely snagged. Of note, many of these stores are self-serve check out (and you tap your card on the side of the reader if memory serves — versus on the top like in North America). If you spend enough time in the Netherlands, Albert Heijn will be one of your regular stops. Need snacks, breakfast or beer for the hotel? They got you.
Canal wandering
We walked various canals on our way back to the hotel.
La Perla Pizzeria
After a bit of a break at the hotel, it was time for dinner. This writer had scoped out La Perla Pizzeria so we headed out back to Jordaan seeking some delicious ‘za.
The interesting thing about this place is it is located on both sides of the street. One side that seems to be where the pizza ovens are (suitable for take-out, with a few seats to eat) and then the more dining area on the other side of the street. We entered the former and ordered up and sat along with windows on stools enjoying our pizza. This writer was a bit confused (based on research) until seeing the more-sit-down section across the street (and, yes, they ferry pizza across the street to the dining section). Regardless, we were fed with some solid pizza which completely filled the bill. Now, your kid needs ice cream.
Monte Pelmo
A less-than-one-minute walk from La Perla Pizzeria, you will (likely) find a bit of a line up for ice cream/gelato. Your kid will be happy though. The review-from-a-10-year-old was solid, so if you need an ice cream or gelato spot in Joordan, Monte Pelmo is your spot.
A less-than-10-minute walk south gets you to Westerkerk.
Westerkerk
On the edge of Jordaan you can’t miss the grand tower of Westerkerk, sitting on the edge of Prinsengracht. We admired from the outside, and likely took too many photos. Then, the walk continued.
Torensluis
An eight minute walk from Westerkerk is the canal bridge, Torensluis. It is one of the widest canal bridges in Amsterdam because it once had a tower upon it. As well, the idea was it was to host shops and such. Regardless, if you’re walking in that direction, make a small detour to walk across this famous Amsterdam bridge.
Day three in Amsterdam: Museum district, Noord and Oud-West
Rijksmuseum
For breakfast, we stayed in the hotel room and enjoyed croissants, muffins and orange juice courtesy of Albert Heijn (told you – you will learn to love the Albert Heijn) – and then off to our booked 10:30 spot at the Rijksmuseum. There is a lot to see here, for sure. All said, for this writer, it’s not a ‘must see’ but for many I’m sure it is. The Van Gogh Museum, albeit quite different, was a better experience (if you had to choose between the two – again, this is the opinion of one). By the time we were out, things started getting busy, but at 10:30 (on a Sunday, at least) the place was fairly manageable. There was hardly any wait to check bags and such. Yes, they have a coat/bag check. Worth mentioning: The outside of the building is worth inspection – especially from the south side.
Ferry to NDSM
A less-than-10 minute walk from Rijksmuseum gets you to Vijzelgracht subway station. From there, we were 2 stops from Amsterdam Centraal – and onto the free ferry to NDSM. When in Amsterdam Centraal, essentially get yourself to the ‘back’/north of the station and you’ll be along side the river with a selection of ferries right there.
IJ-kantine
Once landed, we had a lazy lunch at IJ-kantine. Overall, nice enough place and friendly service but the food could be better. For draft beer, they had a couple of craft options – both Dutch wheat beers which weren’t brilliant. Side note: Looking back, I believe we were originally supposed to end up at IJver to eat, but there was some confusion with the names by the person writing this blog post. Oops.
STRAAT Museum
From there, off to STRAAT Museum, the graffiti/street art museum. Before entering, there’s a large mural of Anne Frank.
We arrived around 1 p.m. on a Sunday and the place was fairly quiet. It’s a massive space anyway, so you’ll never likely bump into people. As for the pieces, we quite enjoyed this museum. Lots of great photo opportunities.
I’d put STRAAT Museum on the ‘must-see’ list of Amsterdam. From there we walked through NDSM – which was kind of interesting, but not overly amazing. All said, worth spending 10 minutes to walk around if you’re nearby. As I say that, we were there on a rainy and fairly-cold June day so when the weather is nice, I can see the area to be quite vibrant.
We headed back on the free ferry, onto the Metro and then back to the hotel (Rokin Station) to relax a bit.
Foodhallen
After a bit of a snooze and a few hotel drinks (now around 7:30-8 p.m. or so), we headed out to walk to Foodhallen for a bite, taking in the views along the way.
Foodhallen hosts a variety of indoor food stalls with communal eating (but you may have to search a bit to find an open table). The building used to house trams but has been converted to an art/eats place. Of note, by the time we arrived on this Sunday night, some food shops were closed or about to close – not the majority, but some.
The selections by the group were tacos from Taqueria Lima (Mexican street food — yes, I highly recommend), a (sorry, forgot what was had here!?) from the Vietview – a Vietnamese place (great!, from one of our reviewers), and sushi from Mr Temaki (yes! – the 10 year old approves). Oh and a beer was had from a small (forgot-the-name) craft beer booth: Funky Falcon from Amsterdam’s Two Chefs Brewing (it was ‘fine’ – 3.4/5).
We took a chance and jumped on the 17 tram for the way home. Turns out the route was perfect for us – landing us right at Koningsplein.
That capped another great day in Amsterdam.
Day four in Amsterdam: Western Canal Belt, Centrum – and Haarlem
Singel 404
We went out for breakfast this morning as we had a bit more time. Quickly crossing Singel, we landed at Singel 404 – and sat outside along the canal.
The crew had egg and avocado on a bagel – and ham and cheese on a croissant. No complaints from this crew – and sitting on the patio along the canal in the sun was a nice way to start the day. If you want a simple and pleasant breakfast, consider Single 404.
Anne Frank House
This writer had visited the Anne Frank House on his last visit so skipped this round. That said, the ladies wanted to (rightfully) take in the experience. We booked pre-purchased tickets with a time slot.
Yes, you need to book this well in advance – and time slots open up on a select schedule. If heading to Amsterdam, book Anne Frank House and the popular museums well before you arrive. The great thing about that is you shouldn’t encounter any crazy line ups.
Begijnhof
This writer headed to Begijnhof to check that out. It’s fairly tucked away from the close-by hustle and bustle of Amsterdam. As I learned, no ‘big’ cameras are allowed (phones are allowed to take your photos) and you must remain quiet. This make sense, as people still live there. It’s worth popping in quickly if you’re nearby.
Noordermarkt
The threesome met up again at the Anne Frank House and headed north along Prinsengracht to check out the Noordermarkt (which is mostly an outdoor clothing market) on our way to Amsterdam Centraal where we caught a 20-ish minute train to Haarlem. Before I get going on Haarlem, if you’re in the area, sure, check out the Noordermarkt if you’re looking for some interesting buys from your time in the Netherlands.
Haarlem
The trains from Amsterdam to Haarlem run super frequently so no need to plan ahead at all. As always (and as super helpful), you simply tap your credit card when entering the station – and again when exiting – if riding in a second class cabin. If you’re bringing your little one, have a secondary credit card for them to tap themselves and it’s super easy. The train from Amsterdam to Haarlem is 10-15 minutes depending on the train you get.
A quick walk from the Haarlem train station and we were in the heart of the city – a large square (Grote Markt) – surrounded by old buildings. The expansive patios were alive with those needing a bite and a pint.
We wandered fairly aimlessly through this cute town – but eventually pointed ourselves towards one of the must go-to spots on the tour (as deemed by a guy who like his craft brews).
Jopen
Operating out a converted church, Jopen (at Jopenkerk) produces a variety of styles of craft beer. We took a seat on the sometimes-sunny-sometimes-grey-sometimes-windy patio across the street. With a QR code scan you’re up and ordering – and paying – with drinks and bites arriving not too long after.
Most beers can be had in one of three sizes, making it perfect for sampling many beers. Overall, the beers at Jopen were quite good. This Toronto-based craft beer drinker was definitely satisfied.
Also, this place – and pretty much every place we’ve been – does solid fries (sorry, frietjes)! Let’s say we sampled many beers, lots of bites, and witnessed the largest seagull we’ve every seen. Good times were had at the Jopenkerk patio.
Crepeaffaire
Heading back to the train station, the family trip mates wanted to hit up a crepes place. It’s possible that this writer picked an, ummmm, different type of crepe (pulled pork) but – overall – meh. Skip the crepe place.
On the train back to Amsterdam Centraal, a German couple started chatting us up. Nice folks! That’s all – but I told them I would buy them pints if/when the were in Toronto (to the dismay of my wife).
Is it worth the trip to Haarlem if already visiting Amsterdam? I’m going to say ‘no’ – It’s nice, but that can all be found in Amsterdam easily. If you’re a beer person, is it worth it to visit for Jopen? Possibly. Their beers aren’t ground breaking but quite decent. We enjoyed our time, but I’m guessing that could all be had in Amsterdam.
A quick word for the beer nerds: This writer had other craft beer establishments marked for Amsterdam but, for us, time didn’t make it happen. Among the many researched:
- Proeflokaal Arendsnest
- De Bierkoning
- Bierbaum (shop, for take-out)
Train to Maastricht
With a rail strike upon us (the next day!), we had to figure out an alternative method of getting to Maastricht. After much research (that involved taking non-Dutch rail companies down to the south of the Netherlands), it was decided we would leave Amsterdam a night early and book an extra night in Maastricht (yes, we essentially ate the cost of one night of a central Amsterdam hotel – ouch).
With that, around 7:30 p.m. or so, we headed out with our gear – onto the 17 tram to Amsterdam Centraal. A credit card tap we were in the station and finding our platform. It was quite busy (this writer felt we had to be a bit strategic on the platform) but we scored a seat at the back of the train car that was more like a couch. That turned out to be perfect as there was room for our bags.
Two hours and 30 minutes later, we were in Maastricht – making our way across Sint Servaasbrug (the oldest bridge in the Netherlands, they say!) towards our hotel.
Day one in Maastricht: Binnenstad, Wyck, Jekerkwartier, Kommelkwartier
Maison Haas Hustinx
With Maastricht being much cheaper to stay than Amsterdam, we splurged, somewhat, and ended up going with Maison Haas Hustinx right on the edge of the main square, Vrijthof. It’s a renovated building, built in 1920, where every unit is different. And ours was definitely unique. The main level had a living room with couch and a large, beautiful, bathroom – with two beds upstairs in somewhat of a loft design. To connect the two: a wooden spiral staircase. It’s a perfect unit to stay in when you plan to have some down time to relax ‘at home’.
As mentioned, we added another night kind-of-last-minute due to the train strike. Online, we booked a different room based on online availability, and sent a message, and they pieced everything together so we ended up in the same room the entire time. It was very much appreciated.
Overall, we stayed 3 nights here – and highly recommend. If arriving by train, it’s less than a 20 minute walk to the hotel (we did this at night – after hours due to the train strike – and the instructions and deliverables were perfect – i.e. they set up everything perfectly expecting us to arrive late). Did I mention, we loved this place? Little details: We didn’t opt for daily cleaning but they still dropped a bag at our door each day with a refill of the essentials. Great place — Highly recommend.
SoDelicious
For breakfast we headed back across the bridge (fairly close to the train station in the Wyck neighbourhood) and arrived at SoDelicious. The adults each had one of the ‘full’ breakfasts. For this writer, that was scrambled eggs, a bun with ham (and more), a small bun and a croissant. It was the best meal I’d had in the Netherlands – and, honestly, may have been the best breakfast I’ve ever had. Service was great and food came quickly. No complaints at all. We highly recommend.
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Basilica of Our Lady), Helpoort and Maastricht University
After breakfast we decided to stroll through the south-west (if you can call it that) part of the city. This tour included Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (the big church in town – just walk in), Helpoort gate, and from there walking along the former city walls and up through Maastricht University. It’s a nice stroll if you have the time.
Stadsbrouwerij Maastricht
After a bit of downtime at the hotel it was time for a late beer lunch. We headed back over Sint Servaasbrug again to Stadsbrouwerij Maastricht.
At round 2pm or so, we were the first to hit the patio outside. The weather (as it does in the Netherlands) was all over the place – from a really nice comfortable day to quite windy (and back again – and again). The view of the Meuse river isn’t exactly the most picturesque but we were outside beside water so ‘heh’!
The kid continued her fries with mayo streak – getting that once again. “Mom” went with a caprese salad (quite good, we’re told) and this writer (eventually) went with the tuna tartare on bread. The latter included mango and avocado – Really nice.
As for the beer, the wheat beer got good reviews – as did one of the guest taps, a hazy IPA out of Middelberg. One of the IPAs by the host brewery was ‘ok’.
As for the service – not the greatest. They would have sold twice as much beer to this customer if they were just around. There was also a fairly substantive muck up with one of the food orders. Not a huge deal – The server was fairly new – We weren’t in a rush anyway.
Hate to say it but that QR code ordering that we experienced at Jopen would have solved both issues. It’s not for everyone, granted.
Albert Heijn
On the way back, of course, we hit up Alberjt Hejn for some snacks and – yes – wine and beer to drink at home during downtime. Everything (seems) is self-checkout and remember to take that receipt as you’ll need it to scan your way out of the place.
Il Bacaro
After a break at the hotel we headed out for a late dinner – a few doors down at the Italian restaurant Il Bacaro. Pastas as well as a few sides were on order. Overall, pastas were nice – although some of the meatballs were under cooked. Two of the three on this trip decided it was their best meal of the trip. Some online chatter says stay away from a lot of the Vrijthof restaurants, but this hit the spot for us.
Vrijthof / Sint-Janskerk
We wandered around the neighbourhood a bit after dinner. Of note, definitely check out the back of Sint-Janskerk as, one may argue, it’s more interesting than the front view.
Day two in Maastricht: Binnenstad, Jekerkwartier, Jekerdal
De Tribunal Maastricht
Our original breakfast destination didn’t exactly pan out but nearby was a nice lonely patio of De Tribunal Maastricht – so we decided to pull up a chair and wing it.
The table order ranged from the spanish breakfast to the banana bread to a simple croissant. The breakfast menu isn’t huge but should suffice for most people. Overall, no complaints here. It did the job and sitting outside on a nice day totally worked. Service was decent. You likely can’t go wrong here.
Maastricht Underground – North Caves
We booked our spot on the North Caves tour online (although seems you can walk up and hope for the best). For our tour (Wednesday at 12:15) there ended up being around 10 people total – for a tour that seems to handle 35 or so.
The North Caves tour is at Sint Pieter Fort which is definitely walkable from the city center (taking less than 30 minutes on foot).
As for the tour, our guide was fantastic. You’ll get into the man-made tunnels (where they used to ‘mine’ limestone) and enjoy history throughout. It’s really well done – and the tunnels themselves are pretty amazing. In the odd part (mostly near the beginning) the taller folks may have to bend down a bit, but otherwise it’s walking as normal. The guide has a fairly bright light throughout – and select members of the tour carry small lanterns as well. We highly recommend.
Cafe Forum
What seems to be one of the better beer bars in Maastricht, Cafe Forum was a good stop heading back from the tour of the North Caves. We grabbed a spot on the patio (of note, we discovered after that there’s also a patio across the street for Cafe Forum – that may have some sun when the other does not).
We enjoyed a few craft beers – as well as a small charcuterie board and – of course – fries. This writer was expecting a bit better of a tap list but it still worked. Service was decent as well.
From there we wandered – including in and out of a few stores – and then arrived at a unique bookstore – one that is in an old church.
Boekhandel Dominicanen
So, yes, Boekhandel Dominicanen is housed in an old church right in the heart of Maastricht. Even if you’re not a book nerd (or want to buy any books) it’s worth popping your head in for a few minutes.
Gemeente Maastricht
Right nearby is Maastricht city hall (Gemeente Maastricht). It appears some days (all days?) there’s a market out front. We arrived just as the last stands were closing up. If you’re in the area, it’s worth checking out the architecture.
Café Falstaff
Situated in front of a small square (yes, lots of patio chairs!) sits Café Falstaff – a bar that features a decent list of craft beer selections.
We took a seat on a fairly busy patio (late afternoon on a Wednesday) and the service was very good. Drinks came out quick and the server was attentive. Why I bring this up is, from our experience, Dutch service hasn’t been the best in many places.
Craft beers were had by the adults – and the kid enjoyed an Italian soda of some sort.
At this point, back to the hotel to chill for a bit – before dinner.
De Gouverneur
The crew was unanimously indecisive on where to grab dinner. It was getting late (9 p.m.) and thus a decision was to be made. We decided on De Gouverneur, which has a bit of everything – oh, and beer.
The large patio was jammed with a younger-than-us set. That said, our daughter was the only child. Makes sense: 9:30 p.m. on a Wednesday night. We snuck into the last remaining outdoor seat. For grub, we had pastas all around (again). They were quite nice. We enjoyed! The New England IPA that was had was a fairly ‘meh’ however. Service was very attentive.
Cannot complain, for our late evening in the wonderful Maastricht.
Day one in Utrecht (good bye Maastricht)
KOFFIE bij Joost en Maartje
After our final night in Maastricht, we got up earlier than normal (as it was check-out day!), got cleaned up and headed out for breakfast. The selection was KOFFIE bij Joost en Maartje – a nice 5 minute walk from our hotel near Vrijthof.
We arrived a bit before 9 a.m. and there were plenty of seats. There’s a short ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’ menu. The crew went with avocado and salad on toast (with bacon!), toy soldiers, and a couple of pain de chocolat. Oh, and a cappuccino and orange juice. All around, really nice place with the perfect breakfast. We highly recommend.
Train to Utrecht
A 2 hour train ride from Maastricht (which was much less busy than the train we took to Maastricht) and we’d arrived in Utrecht. This was our home base for 5 days – seeing Utrecht and also day tripping to other cities.
Inntel Hotels Utrecht Centre
Inntel Hotels Utrecht Centre is conveniently located right beside the train station – and, despite arriving early, we had no problem getting into our room upon arrival. We booked a family room (City XL Family Room) which is actually a lot better than shown on the website. A fairly long hallway connects two bedrooms – the one being a kids room with two small beds and sink/shower. Definitely a kid pleaser. The room featured high ceilings as well. Oh, there’s also a small pool (with a view) to make your child (or you!) happy during downtime.
Belgisch Biercafé Olivier
Not too long after arriving we headed out looking for a bite and a beer. The (quite famous) Belgisch Biercafé Olivier was an 8 minute walk so that was our start. We arrived around 3:30 on a Thursday afternoon and it was dead (great for us!). Apparently it’s difficult to get into this place at certain times (and it can be quite loud due to the building structure… which is an old church building). It’s definitely worth a visit if you like your beer – and unique settings to drink your beer. There’s a mix of macro and micro brews – amongst a shorter tap list and a longer can/bottle list.
We order lunch as well – a salad, burger and fries and mayo for the kid. All decent – can’t complain. Service was quite good. At least one washroom was missing soap though.
It was 27 degrees Celsius this day and the space did get a bit hot. Not sure if it’s air conditioned, but – if not – it likely roasts in the heart of summer.
After a bit we headed closer to the canals, stopping at Huis Zoudenbalch.
Huis Zoudenbalch
If you’re in the neighbourhood, this unique building, built in 1467, is worth checking out. It’s on a fairly quiet street so you shouldn’t have any issue snapping a decent photo.
From there we headed east on Zadelstraat getting our first view of Dom Tower just as we headed down Oudegracht (“old canal”).
Oudegracht
Oudegracht is one of the two-level canals that flows through Utrecht. It’s definitely worth walking down to check out.
Be sure to pop down to the lower level, especially near the end of the canal at Twijnstraat aan de Werf.
Need something? Along this stretch is an Albert Heijn (of course!) for your snack/grocery/beer/wine needs. Also, for air-conditioning! They stock a number of Dutch craft beers – not all brilliant, but they’re there.
The plan was to take the train to Delft and Leiden but a rail strike hindered that idea. Thus, an Utrecht day!
Continuing this walk down the canal you can make a quick detour to check get your child (or you!) a picture with “Miffy” (or, as the Dutch call her, Nijntje) outside the Nijntje Museum.
Once reaching the end, we walked back up the other side, this time continuing north of where we started. It seems the restaurant scene on the lower level of the canal is much more vibrant in the northern portion.
At this point the crew needed a break, so back to the hotel to relax a bit. The kid did her thing in the pool. We had a super late snack at the hotel restaurant and that concluded day one in Utrecht.
Day two in Utrecht
30ml Vredenburg
Breakfast took place a short walk from the hotel, at 30ml Vredenburg. It was quite good. The ladies had breakfast sandwiches (the European way – not the North American way), and this writer enjoyed an open croissant with egg, bacon and avocado. Service was solid, and it was a nice space. Oh, we arrived at around 11 a.m. on a Friday – and had no issues getting a spot for three. We recommend!
Market Vredenburg
A super short walk from breakfast was Market Vredenburg. This was at around 11 a.m. or so. The market space was a bit sparse, although there was a variety of vendors including those that seem to have more permanent setups (cheese vendors, etc.).
From there a quick walk down the small street, Drieharingstraat (which is mostly restaurants with small patios) and out the other side.
Post Utrecht
Post Utrecht is an old post office building that has been converted into a library. It’s worth popping your head inside if you’re nearby.
A quick walk south from there and you end up at a very interesting looking building.
Winkel van Sinkel
Worth walking by and taking a photo or two is the restaurant Winkel van Sinkel. The building, however was once the oldest department store in the Netherlands.
Ganzenmarkt tunnel
This tunnel – decorated in graffiti and lights – takes you down to canal level. Even during the day it’s kind of neat. To do it ‘right’, however, a night visit would be the way.
We continued down the canal until reaching DomTower.
Dom Tower (Domtoren)
It’s likely impossible to visit Utrecht and not see Dom Tower from some vantage point. We did not go up the tower, but just seeing it up close is worth your time. There’s also an underground experience that we skipped (after touring the fabulous caves of Maastricht).
Dom van Sint-Maarten (Domkerk)
Right by Dom Tower is Domkerk, aka Dom van Sint-Maarten. We popped our heads in for a few minutes. This won’t be your most beautiful church visit ever but worth a peek if nearby. There’s no charge but donations are encouraged.
Pandhof van de Dom
Right by the Tower and church sits the small oasis of Pandhof van de Dom. I highly recommend visiting this quickly, especially if you like to take photos.
Paushuize
A few minutes of walking took us to Paushuize – the second oldest building in the city centre – built in 1517.
Nieuwegracht
From there we walked down Nieuwegracht (“new canal”). It’s definitely the quieter of the two main canals in Utrecht. While Oudegracht is full of stores, bars and restaurants, Nieuwegracht is more residential with some workplaces in the mix.
Café Ledig Erf
It was super hot (31 degrees Celsius!) and the crew needed a break. One of the bars this writer had researched for craft beers on tap was Café Ledig Erf, which sits at the bottom of Oudegracht.
We arrived around 1 p.m. (on a Saturday) and the huge patio was deserted. We found a shadier spot on the patio and ordered up some beers to try – and some bitterballen as well. You have the option of ordering/paying via your phone, which works well if you’re trying to get out of there at a certain time. Drinks arrived quickly – can’t complain!
Walking back towards our hotel we opted for the fairly-heavily-shaded walking path along Stadsbuitengracht (a canal that surrounds most of the older part of Utrecht). This is a good bet if you’re trying to avoid the business of Oudegracht – and need some shade on a hot day.
Little Beershop
If you need some take-out European craft beer (including Dutch, of course) for the hotel or the park Little Beershop is a great stop. If you’re indecisive, the owners will be more than happy to help you out. This writer picked up likely too many beers while the women on the trip went to the mall. Yes, there’s a mall in central Utrecht.
Spaghetteria (Korte Koestraat)
We wanted to check out Spaghetteria in Amsterdam when we were there but the timing didn’t work out. That said, they also have some in Utrecht – so we headed to the one on Korte Koestraat for dinner. There’s a fairly cozy outdoor space that was jam packed, so we opted to sit indoors where there was plenty of room. The overall consensus? Decent but not brilliant. Service was solid, but I’m guessing there’s better pasta in Utrecht.
Day three in Utrecht: Trip to Delft and Leiden
Delft market
Today was a day-trip day. Namely, Delft – and adding in Leiden if we had time. We arrived via train in Delft at around 11 a.m. (on a Saturday).
Saturday is market day and what that means is vendors line the canals all to sell their wares. It’s one never-ending market when walking around in the city centre.
What that means is things are likely more crowded than on a non-market day. Regardless, at least one of our crew thoroughly enjoyed scoping the various items for sale – and even bought a few pieces.
Walking from the train to the city centre you’ll no doubt stumble upon Oude Kerk.
Oostpoort
This writer’s mother is from Delft and thus it required a bit of extra walking that many may not do. First, Oostpoort to grab a photo with the city gate (as was done roughly 20 years ago on another visit) and the attempting to scope out where “Oma” went to school back in the day. We were successful on both – although the school is now converted to an office, with the school exterior remaining. Turns out my photos at Oostpoort were done on the wrong camera setting, but you can easily find photos by searching Google.
Delfts Brouwhuis
Then back into the city centre for some beer and grub. Located right across from Oude Kerk, the previously scouted Delfts Brouwhuis was the solution to our beer and food needs. Inside is quite nice but we opted for a seat on the fairly large patio. Once seated this writer started ripping through the beer list. Our food selections were solid – and service was quite good. For some reason our Canadian credit cards weren’t working with multiple of their machines (despite working pretty much everywhere else – including to pay for the train). Good old cash bailed us out. It’s a really nice spot. Recommended by this crew.
Markt
We wandered more of the market stalls and through the main square (Markt) that includes Stadhuis Delft (city hall) and Nieuwe Kerk. After that, we were back to the train station – and decided we had time to check out Leiden (around a 30 minute train ride from Delft).
Leiden
We didn’t have a huge agenda for Leiden, but did have a map of places of interest. We wandered through a city centre. This writer was quite impressed with Leiden. It’s a beautiful city – and one that I’d argue is worth a full day of casual wandering, drinking/eating. On this Saturday the streets were alive with things going on – and patios were jammed. It was a great vibe.
From there, back on the train to our adopted home in Utrecht.
McDonald’s
What? There were a few places we had on the list for dinner, and the first two didn’t pan out. As we walked to the ‘next’ on our list, “mamma” headed into McDonald’s, to the delight of the little one, and the dismay of this writer. Yes, we ate McDonald’s at the hotel this evening. At least we had those take out craft brews. Word is the McChicken has a better patty in the Netherlands than in Canada.
Day four in Utrecht (including Den Bosch)
Today was a day-trip-day once again. We had breakfast in our room (courtesy of Albert Heijn), and headed out to the train.
Den Bosch (‘s-Hertogenbosch)
We grabbed the 10 a.m.-ish train to Den Bosch. If you grab the Intercity, it’s less than 30 minutes – and with no stops in between.
We wandered with the guide of our premade map. Walking the street, walking through the square, and, of special note, Sint-Jan.
Sint-Janskathedraal (St John’s Cathedral)
Just standing outside of Sint-Janskathedraal you can understand the size. It’s huge. We stepped inside for a gander. It’s definitely worth your time to pop your head in. This church is considered one of the largest in the Netherlands. Unfortunately my camera clicked into the wrong setting so inside photos turned out incomprehensible.
Rhodos Restaurant
Post-church-visit the crew needed a bite and a bathroom. One of us was craving Greek food, so Rhodos fit the bill. Their menu includes small dishes for those who just need a bit of something. For example, gyro on a pita for 9 euro (and it’s huge). We sat on the patio that looks at the above-mentioned cathedral (getting drowned out by the bells at one point) and got enough in us (and a beer!) to get us on our way.
Canal tour
The idea was to grab an early afternoon booking of the canal boat tour. It seems leaving that to ‘day of’ to book was a poor idea if we didn’t want to wait until one of the late afternoon time slots (of note, this is was Sunday, so your luck may differ on a weekday). Instead of waiting for a time slot around 4 p.m., we opted to do a tour the next day ‘back home’ in Utrecht.
One spot we did want to check out before leaving, was the somewhat-out-the-way area called Tramkade – a re-imagined former factory site.
Tramkade Den Bosch
We didn’t say long as one member of the crew wasn’t feeling 100% at this point in the day, but just wandering through was worth the visit. If you love taking photos, you can’t go wrong here. It’s an artsy/industrial type area with a variety of businesses, including patios to grab a beer on.
Thinking about this now, we should have prioritized this spot in order to spend more time here – including checking out the brewery.
As mentioned, one-third of the crew wasn’t feeling the best so we jumped back on the Intercity train to Utrecht – “home” by around 2:30 p.m.
How long could we have spent in Den Bosch? Definitely more than we did. If you’re going casual, stopping in at multiple patios and having drinks and such, I can see it being a full day. If you’re more about wandering, seeing the sights, taking in a canal cruise, and eating once or twice it’s likely not a full day. This writer is more than happy to be proven wrong on that. Feel free to comment below!
All said, is Den Bosch worth a day trip from your location (Utrecht, Amsterdam, etc.): Yes!
vandeStreek Oudegracht
After a bit of rest at the hotel we headed out for some dinner and Dutch craft beer. We snagged a canal-side (lower level!) seat at vandeStreek Oudegracht.
This writer enjoyed a bunch of small pours: A New England hazy (really nice!), a pilsner (decent), pale ale (nice), and a double-IPA (not my typical style, but was decent). At time of this writing, no recollection of what we all ate, but I do recall it was a great spot to check out. Sitting along the ‘waters edge’ was a unique experience – and a really great way to spend one of our last nights in the Netherlands.
Day five in Utrecht
Utrecht Boat Cruises
We signed up for the morning (11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.) open boat cruise with Utrecht Boat Cruises. They promote it as a casual affair – with a couple of drinks included in the price (and you can bring your own drinks/snacks as well). Boarding is right near the library (former post office) building. On this Monday morning in June there was, in addition to us, 5 people – plenty of room to go around.
There’s a table along part of the boat – which is a good seat if you want to place your drink down. Underneath the table there are coolers stacked with pop, water, beer and wine. For you beer nerds, sorry, the beer is Heineken.
The canal cruise has a bit of everything, starting in the busier part of the Oudegracht and then eventually through the much quieter Nieuwegracht – and finishing off back in Oudegracht.
The driver/guide points out points of interest and adds in some interesting stories as well. It’s in English.
Little kids are free – and older kids are discounted (when you work your way through the online booking process you’ll eventually get an option for a kids discount – it’s a bit odd, but that’s how it’s done).
Honestly, it was perfect. Super chill; enjoy a beer during the slow ride down the canals – and learning some interesting facts about the great city of Utrecht. It was the perfect way to (almost) end our stay in Utrecht. Definitely recommend!
Le Journal
After the canal cruise, we needed to eat. One of the tour books recommend Le Journal. This restaurant has a large patio (covered and uncovered) as well a nice inside. It’s located right by the library (former post office) building. The menu has some variety (including late breakfast) and there are some Dutch craft beers to be had. The service was solid and the food was quite good. We recommend it!
Looking back there’s a blank here on what we did for the rest of the day. Soooo, let’s skip to dinner!
Stadskasteel Oudaen
Looking for a bite to eat for dinner, one of our travel books recommended Stadskasteel Oudaen. As a bonus, they brew their own beer as well. This writer had the NEIPA which was ‘ok’. For food, the burger had that same spice (?) that many burgers here do – and one I don’t care for. I just wanted something simple for the final night here. “Mama” and the kid shared a chicken satay dish. Not bad, but not brilliant. Service was decent – and we got to sit outside overlooking the canal (top level). Overall, I doubt we’d recommend Oudaen, considering there are many other options to choose from.
Day six in Utrecht: Schiphol airport
Utrecht to Schiphol Airport
The original plan was to hop on one of the frequent trains that connect Utrecht and Schiphol, but due to a rail strike we had to opt for a cab. We booked ahead with Utrecht Taxi Centrale in case the rail strike was going to cause a major push on cabs, Ubers, etc. Pick up was on-time and flawless. By car, it’s a bit of a trek but we got there without issue.
Schiphol
We experienced little delay at Schiphol airport. That said, it was also the first time we’d flown premium economy (“Premium Comfort” with KLM) and, at Schiphol, that means you skip a good chunk of the security line up. Ditto for checking in bags.
Once through security, there were many different options for seating and amenities. Far more varied than what I’ve experienced back home Pearson International (Toronto). As for the flight home – all good! For this writer, it’s worth the extra coin for premium economy – especially considering we typically don’t travel internationally more than once a year.
As for our Netherlands trip overall, we loved being able to show our 10 year old daughter where her Oma and Opa are from – and to see this great country in general. It was a trip we will always talk about.
Dank je wel, Nederland – We thoroughly enjoyed!