4 days visiting Lisbon (with an 8 year old child and a beer nerd)

Tram 25 in Cais do Sodré (Lisbon, Portugal).

We hadn’t been on vacation in a looooooong time. So, we took our Downtown Kid with us to Portugal. We visited both Lisbon and Porto over a span of 9 days. Here’s a rundown on what we did in Lisbon. This isn’t written from the perspective of “the most kid-friendly things to do in Lisbon,”or even “the best things to do in Lisbon,” but more so what our time in Lisbon looked like, with an 8 year old on board for the ride. What that means is you won’t see many museums or galleries – as they’re not exactly where a child wants to spend an hour or two typically. Of note, this writer despises line ups, so don’t expect us to partake in much that requires a crazy wait, which makes even more sense when you have your child in tow. This writer also likes to try craft beers in his travels, so you’ll see beer venues in the mix. We visited Lisbon in mid-late May.

Day one in Lisbon: Airport and Cais do Sodré

Arriving in Lisbon by air

We arrived at the Lisbon airport around 11am on a Thursday in late May (direct from Toronto). The Lisbon airport is definitely outdated, but arriving wasn’t too bad at this time of day. Of note, they do have separate passport control lines for those with electronic passports, but seems if you have a child with you, you can’t make use of that. Into the regular line we went (non-electronic; non-EU). We waited for 15-20 minutes and then we were officially in Portugal.

Taking the Metro into the city centre

After claiming our checked baggage, it was a quick exit from the airport and then a quick entrance into the Metro system which is right next door to the airport. When we arrived, there was a decent line up for the fare machines (i.e. purchasing a card for the transit system), but if you walk past that line and turn the corner you can find another machine that people don’t typically see. Indeed, that machine was not being used so we avoided the line up when purchasing our transit cards. Of note, we added a bunch of money to our cards thinking we would be hopping on transit multiple times per day. Turns out, we barely used transit during our stay as we walked to almost everything. The exceptions being going to/from the airport and train station, and heading out to Belém. If we were to do it again, we’d add enough funds to get to/from the airport/train and then enough for a few more trips on top of that.

We stayed near Cais do Sodré station, so changed from the red line to the green line at Alameda station. The green line was far more crowded than the red line when used it, likely because they run a smaller train on that route (three cars only). Make note of that when positioning yourself on the platform (there is signage on the floor to help). Other than being a bit crowded, having the metro system right at the airport was fantastic.

CAIS Urban Lodge

We wanted to stay comfortably when in Lisbon, especially because we figured we’d have more “hotel time” due to having a child with us. We booked an apartment in an apartment hotel building in the Cais do Sodré neighbourhood. I wouldn’t say we chose that neighbourhood on purpose. It was more so the apartment we thought would work well for us happened to be in that neighbourhood. That said, we knew that staying in Cais do Sodré would allow us to walk to most things we wanted to do.

CAIS Urban Lodge turned out to be a great choice for us. We booked an apartment that had a small terrace, giving us a bit of outdoor space – and a decent view! Although we didn’t end up cooking anything, the unit came with a fully equipped kitchen, including a dishwasher. And, yes, air conditioning. Knowing we had our “little one,” they added an extra bed to the apartment as well. The building is beautiful, as was the apartment.

There is no reception at this apartment hotel, so you’re communicating arrival times and any other needs you have through WhatsApp. That totally worked for us, but may not for some people.

Before booking, I did realize that the building was right next to the infamous Pink Street (more on that below), which meant things could be a big noisy at night. With the windows closed, we didn’t hear much at all. With windows open, you knew the party was happening, but it didn’t really bother us.

After spending a few minutes in the apartment, we headed out for a bite to eat. Not wanting to travel to far to get a simple bite, we visited the Time Our Market, which was 5 minute walk from our apartment.

Time Out Market Lisboa (Mercado da Ribeira)

Time Out Market is basically a bunch of independent food stalls under one roof, with communal sitting in the middle. We arrived at around 2 p.m. on a Thursday and it was quite busy. It took us a few minutes to find a few empty seats to sit at.

After some wandering, choices were made. Downtown Kid had a grilled octopus hot dog from Sea Me. Not bad for a first meal in Portugal. She didn’t end up finishing it, but definitely loves her grilled octopus. Mama also chose Sea Me, enjoying a shrimp and rice dish – along with a glass of wine from another stall. This writer went with the Batista Hot Dog from Tartine “paired” with a glass of Coruja (Super Bock’s IPA). The hot dog was fantastic – and the beer underwhelming.

Overall, is the Time Out Market in Lisbon a “must visit?” I would say not. If you’re in the area and want a quick bite, sure.

Pink Street

Oh, boy. Where to start with Pink Street. We have a unique perspective of this street because our apartment (that we stayed three days at) was one street over and our little terrace looked over part of Pink Street. Basically, Pink Street is pretty gross. If you want to stroll it midday or something like that, fine (i.e. after they’ve cleaned up from the night before – and before the next day of drinking begins). Yes, it’s a street painted pink – with colourful hanging umbrellas for part of it. At night, it’s a drunk-fest – or so I assume, based on what the neighbourhood looks like the next morning.

Pink Street in Lisbon, Portugal

Colourful umbrellas on Pink Street in Lisbon.

If you decide to head out in the neighbourhood on a Saturday or Sunday morning, for example, the nearby streets are littered with beer bottles, beer cans, plastic cups, and anything else that goes along with that. The city crews are out early to start the clean up, but even if you go out to grab a coffee at 9 a.m. or so, you’ll still see the remnants of the night before.

There’s a reason they hose down Pink Street in the morning after a night of partying. With that in mind, I don’t think I’d ever eat on that street, let alone have a drink.

Is Pink Street a “must visit?” Definitely not.

Ascensor da Bica: Calçada da Bica Pequena

Almost every time we walked by the entrance to the Ascensor da Bica, there was a decent line up, but this writer really just wanted to see it go by, versus waiting to experience the ride. I’m convinced the Ascensor da Bica (and others in the city like it), only still exist for tourists. The hills that these ride on are not insurmountable by any means. Yes, even your child can make the mount without complaining. That and there are some nice little streets that intersect Calçada da Bica Pequena (the street that the funicular rides along).

At a semi-decent hour of the day, you’ll have to be strategic to get photos of these marvels (sorry, I love looking at them trudging along the hill) without tourists in the picture doing the same. When we were taking them in, one was still the standard yellow colour, with the other being destroyed in graffiti. You get a picture of each, I suppose.

Ascensor da Bica covered in graffiti - Lisbon, Portugal

Is it worth seeing the Ascensor da Bica (or at least one of the city funiculars)? I would say, yes.

That ended our first half day in Lisbon.

Day two in Lisbon: Belém and Estrela

We decided to knock off our furthest items from the city centre on Day Two in Lisbon, starting with Belém.

But first, we took to the streets to seek out breakfast. The much-beloved (on TikTok, at least) Dear Breakfast in Chiado already had a line up, so we kept walking down Calçada de São Francisco in search of another option.

Cotidiano

With only a minute or two wait, we were seated at Cotidiano, not too far down the street from Dear Breakfast. They offered us two small tables for the three of us, until a larger table was available. Just after taking our order a table that opened out to the street became available and we were promptly moved. We had breakfast with a perfect view of the 28E tram trudging by. Perfect.

Oh right, the food. Let’s just say the 5 euro banana bread that you order for your child, thinking they’ll finish it: Good luck. This isn’t the banana bread from back home. It’s two large slices fully done up with many things on top. Let’s just say we wrapped one up in a napkin for later. The adults had the Pink Benedict and the Open Salmon which were both solid helpings and quite good. This was also our first taste of “real” orange juice in Portugal. So good.

Would we recommend Cotidiano? Definitely.

After enjoying the food – and views – we stopped back at the apartment real quick and then off to Belém.

15E Tram to Belém

We made our way down to the tram/bus stop just outside of Cais do Sodré station, taking the 15E tram out to Belém. This was around midday and let’s just say we weren’t the only ones trying to do the same thing. We likely waited 20 to 30 minutes for the 15E to show up. Once it did, it was fairly packed with people doing the same thing as we were doing. Thus, making your way to Belém, I’m guessing, is better done earlier in the day. It appears the train is also an option, but the tram gives you a nice “ride by” of the neighbourhoods along the way. The tram we were one was void of stop announcements, stop electronic boards, and stop buttons, thus we opted to get off with the crowds outside of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, instead of getting off further afar as originally planned (i.e. closer to Torre de Belém). This just meant we would walk certain sections twice. Not a big deal. Of note, the line ups outside of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos were already crazy at this point.

We crossed the street and into the garden area Jardim da Praça do Império. From there, we used the nearby pedestrian underpass to get across the road/rail way and over to the waterfront.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos

Popping up from the underpass, we were greeted with Padrão dos Descobrimentos, an impressive monument that commemorates the years of Portuguese exploration. We didn’t go inside the monument, but viewing it from the outside is worth the visit, especially if you’ve made the trek to Belém.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos in Lisbon, Portugal

Torre de Belém

A very pleasant 10 to 15 minute waterfront stroll from Padrão dos Descobrimentos is Torre de Belém, a fortification built in the 1500s to help protect Lisbon. We admired from the outside, not opting to stand in the line ups for entry.

Torre de Belém in Lisbon, Portugal

Torre de Belém in Lisbon

Is Torre de Belém worth seeing? Again, I would say definitely – especially along with a few other things in Belém. Also the waterfront in that area is quite nice.

Strolling back towards Mosteiro dos Jerónimos via the waterfront, essentially retracing our steps, we stopped for a small bite and a some adult beverages at Gastrobar 38º 41′.

Gastrobar 38º 41′

Located between Padrão dos Descobrimentos and Torre de Belém, waterfront views can be had at Gastrobar 38º 41′. It’s not brilliant, but the outdoor space is a nice place to take a break when visiting the Belém waterfront. We enjoyed a charcuterie board as well as Portuguese dumplings and croquettes. Oh, and wine and beer for the adults.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Back along the waterfront we walked, through the underpass and Jardim da Praça do Império to the outside of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. The line up was still crazy long (this is at around 2 p.m. on a Friday). With that, we admired the outside of the building (well worth doing) and moved along Rua de Belém.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Lisbon, Portugal

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (side view) in Lisbon

Pastéis de Belém

Just a few minutes walk down Rua de Belem from Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is the famous Pastéis de Belém bakery/cafe. This, as you likely know, is where they’ve been making pastel de nata (the Portuguese custard tart) since the 1800s. These ones, though, formally go by the name of Pastéis de Belém. We stopped in and ordered 6 to go. They come in a nice little box for easy transport. Are they delicous? Absolutely.

Pastéis de Belém in Lisbon, Portugal

From there, we wanted to see a few things near, and in, the Alcântara and Estrela neighbourhoods, and thus walked the 30ish minutes there from Belém. Being quite warm that day, we maybe should have opted to take the 15E tram (or maybe one of the busses) instead, considering we had our “little one” in tow.

Lx Factory

Nearly sitting under the Ponte 25 de Abril suspension bridge in Alcântara, sits Lx Factory, an indoor/outdoor space that houses restaurants, shops and more. We didn’t stay long as we had plans to be at a nearby craft beer place for 5 p.m. Regardless, it’s worth a stroll – and likely having a pint or two. The “public” bathroom here is a mess according to one member of our trio, so honour a business if you “have to go.”

Lx Factory in Lisbon, Portugal

Main street of Lx Factory in Lisbon

Quimera Brewpub

This writer wanted to check out Quimera Brewpub not only for the beer, but also for the ambience of the bar itself. It’s set in a former tunnel, thus completely surrounded by stone. Around a 10 minute walk from Lx Factory, this was our dinner and drinks spot for the night. Arriving shortly after opening (between 5 and 5:30), the inside of the bar had plenty of space and the outdoor tables that sit in a narrow walkway leading to the bar entrance had a few tables open as well. We opted to sit outside, but definitely popped our heads inside to take in the stone confines of the bar.

Quimera Brewpub in Lisbon, Portugal

If you’ve got a beer nerd in your group, and happen to be nearby, it’s worth the stop. Yes, they do beer flights, so it’s easy to try a bunch of different styles and still continue on your day. For beer quality, there are definitely some good ones. Not all are gems, of course, but it’s worth the stop. The food is nothing to rave about, but definitely works for a break on your travels.

Craft beer flight at Quimera Brewpub in Lisbon

From here we walked towards central Lisbon and consulted our Lonely Planet for anything interesting along the way.

Miradouro de Santa Catarina

We visited Miradouro de Santa Catarina on our walk back from Belém, and then again on our last night in Lisbon. On both occasions, the lookout seating was filled with (mostly young) people as a band played in front of them. Of course, there are great views of Lisbon (the harbour, the port lands, and the bridge). Yes, there are better views of the city, but if you’re nearby, I would definitely drop by. Also, the entire vibe was worth the visit (the people, the music, and such). There are a couple of bars right there as well, some with the same great views.

"Yes, Life is Good" at Miradouro de Santa Catarina in Lisbon, Portugal

Views from Miradouro de Santa Catarina in Lisbon

Making our way home from there, we stumbled upon the Ancensor de Bica once again – and, of course, captured more photos of it in action!

Graffiti drenched Ascensor da Bica riding along Calçada da Bica Pequena in Lisbon.

Day three in Lisbon: Baixa, Chiado, Bairro Alto and Alfama

Day Three in Lisbon started with breakfast in our neighbourhood, followed by a day in the centre of the city.

Copenhagen Coffee Lab

There are a number of locations of Copenhagen Coffee Lab in Lisbon. You likely will see at least one in your travels across the city. The one near our apartment (in Cais do Sodré) opened at 8 a.m. on this Saturday. Arriving fairly early, the large space was fairly deserted. We had some coffee, juice and shared a few pastries. It’s a great spot for a quick and easy breakfast before hitting the city. It also made for a quick take-out option on the days we were headed out of town.

Ribeira da Naus

We walked toward the city centre along the waterfront. Namely, Ribeira da Naus. At this time in the morning there wasn’t much going on, aside from a few joggers, but I can see how it can be a chill-in-the-sun place for many.

Praça do Comércio

Strolling Ribeira da Naus led us directly to Praça do Comércio. This huge square features a statue in the middle and a huge arch along the north side. It’s not a “must-visit,” but if you happen to be nearby, take it in.

Statue at Praça do Comércio in Lisbon, Portugal

Arco da Rua Augusta by Praça do Comércio in Lisbon, Portugal

Walking through the large arch (Arco da Rua Augusta) took us up a pedestrian street (Rua Augusta) that comes alive with patios once the day gets going. In the early morning there isn’t too much going on but it does take you to the Elevador de Santa Justa. While walking Rua Augusta north, we kept an eye down the various cross streets, looking to the left. After 5-10 minutes or so, the Elevador de Santa Justa comes into view along Rua de Santa Justa.

Elevador de Santa Justa

Even fairly early in the morning (this was a Saturday, to note), there was a line up to ride the lift.

Elevador de Santa Justa in Lisbon, Portugal

After admiring it from street level, we walked passed the line and towards the back of the lift and onto Rua do Carmo. We were aware that there was a way to get to the viewing platform without taking the lift, so we looked for anything along the Rua do Carmo (walking south/left) that could potentially get us there. Basically the first staircase you see on your right (in a tunnel of sorts – as part of the building) when walking south along Rua do Carmo gets you headed to the viewing platform.

How to get to Elevador de Santa Justa viewing platform from Rua do Carmo.

Once through the staircase in the tunnel, turn right to find your next set of stairs to take you further up. Reaching the top, you’ll encounter the outside of Convento do Carmo. Make a right from there to head towards the viewing platform. You’ll work your way around an outdoor restaurant along the way.

This isn’t the only way to get there. Taking a longer way via the streets (basically getting yourself beside Convento do Carmo) totally works as well. The way we wandered (per the map below) is likely quicker from Rua do Carmo, however.

Map to viewing platform of Elevador de Santa Justa in Lisbon, Portugal.

We checked out the city views from the bridge and platform. As I write this, I realize now there was another viewing platform higher up (take the winding staircase from the “free” platform) that we didn’t actually do. The views from the regular viewing platform are nothing to slouch at though! So, yes, this can be a totally free and line-free experience.

View from Elevador de Santa Justa viewing platform.

Is Elevador de Santa Justa worth seeing? Yes, I would make it part of your visit to Lisbon. As for whether waiting in line and paying to ride the lift is worth it, I can’t comment.

Convento do Carmo

After spending a few minutes on viewing platform of Elevador de Santa Justa, we headed “next door” to Convento do Carmo, which is part of Museu Arqueológico do Carmo. We happened to arrive just before opening (10 a.m.), so there was a small line up. Of note, by the time we left, there was no line up. There are two parts included in your entry. The ruins as well as a small museum. For the ruins alone, Convento do Carmo is definitely worth the visit – and the price of admission.

Convento do Carmo in Lisbon, Portugal

Convento do Carmo in Lisbon

Igreja de São Roque

From here we walked somewhat aimlessly through some tight streets and long staircases of Bairro Alto stumbling upon Igreja de São Roque. While not overly special from the outside, we didn’t get a chance to view inside as it was not yet open for viewing.

Further up Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, we quickly arrived at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara and, right beside, Ascensor da Glória.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

We arrived at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara around midday. As expected, people were relaxing while enjoying the view and listening to the band playing. This lookout has two levels, the lower level having a bit more of a garden feel. There’s a bar right adjacent (or part of, actually!), if that’s your preference.

Right beside this lookout is Lisbon’s other funicular, Ascensor da Glória.

Ascensor da Glória

As we did with Ascensor da Bica, we didn’t hop a ride, but did walk down it’s path (Calçada da Glória) to see the cars trudge along. This writer will never get tired of watching these. In true Lisbon style, both cars were drenched in graffiti.

Ascensor da Glória in Lisbon, Portugal

Ascensor da Glória riding along Calçada da Glória in Lisbon

Walking down Calçada da Glória took us to a wide street near Rossio train station. From there we headed south again, encountering Monumento dos Restauradores along the way.

Igreja de São Domingos

Searching for a restaurant (that we did not find!), we stumbled upon Igreja de São Domingos. This church, on the inside, is very different from the norm – with remnants of a fire still on display. There was a service going on when we arrived, but we took a seat near the back of the church and stared away. If you’re anywhere close to this area (you likely will be), it’s a must visit.

Igreja de São Domingos in Lisbon, Portugal

From there, we passed through Praça da Figueira still on the hunt for something to eat. Consulting our trust Lonely Planet gave us another suggested place to eat (and this one, seems, we could actually find).

Terraço Editorial

Our book had us looking for LESS, but seems it was actually called Terraço Editorial (it must have changed since they published the book). Regardless, you enter via the Pollux housewares store on Rua dos Fanqueiros at Rua de Santa Justa and take the elevator to the eighth floor. It’s a fairly large restaurant, but the key is getting a seat on the terrace – and enjoying the view. This view includes a look down Rua de Santa Justa and thus Elevador de Santa Justa.

We enjoyed a bunch of sharable plates that included duck croquettes, inked cuttlefish croquettes, fresh codfish toast and an order of fries. Wine and a local craft beer (Extraordinária – meh) was on order for the parents.

Service was good – and the food was great. It’s a nice relaxing place for a break when touring Lisbon.

Despite the one craft beer had at Terraço Editorial, this writer had a craft beer bar marked that was just one street over.

Cerveja Canil Baixa

On Rua dos Douradores we stopped in at Cerveja Canil for some Portuguese craft beer. There’s a nice patio along the street, but we weren’t fortunate enough to snag a seat on it. Inside we went. The nice thing about this bar is the ability to have 20cl pours (less than half a pint) to try any of the beers in a smaller format. They had flights as well, but that limited us to the Canil beers only. Beers on tap include Canil beers and those from other Portuguese breweries. We didn’t eat here, so can’t comment on the food. Overall, we didn’t have any brilliant beers — but it’s worth stopping by if in the neighbourhood.

We headed back to the apartment for a bit of a break, and then headed out to check out Sé de Lisboa.

Sé de Lisboa

This church, the oldest in Lisbon, plays a role in the iconic photos you may have seen online: The old tram turning the corner with the imposing church in the background. I didn’t exactly get that shot, as there was construction happening on part of the church. That said, we did take a tour of the inside. Is it worth the price of admission? I would say yes, if you’re into that type of thing. There’s an outdoor lookout from which you can view the city below, as well.

Sé de Lisboa in Lisbon, Portugal

Sé de Lisboa stained glass windows - Lisbon, Portugal

Pizzeria Romana al Taglio

On the way home, we opted for take out as “little one” wasn’t feeling the best. We passed by Pizzeria Romana al Taglio on Rua da Conceição and decided that would totally work. We were right: Nice hefty slices heavily topped with good stuff. If you need a quick bite on the go in central Lisbon, this is a great choice!

For Day Four of our Portugal trip, we headed on the train to Porto, spending a few days there before returning to Lisbon.

Day four in Lisbon: Cais do Sodré

This was a half day for us, as we arrived back in Lisbon via train from Porto. That also meant a new apartment for us to stay at. We were back staying in Cais do Sodré, but this time at 54 São Paulo.

54 São Paulo

We booked a nice apartment at 54 São Paulo. It included a large living space, with full kitchen and a pull out couch. Also, a decent sized bedroom and a fantastic back patio space. Not all rooms have the patio – we were in Room 005.

54 São Paulo apartment hotel in Lisbon: Room 005

There was communal outdoor space as well – and a large shared space indoors for people to do work or just socialize.

We stayed here for two nights, and highly recommend. Similar to other places we stayed in Portugal, they may also correspond via WhatsApp.

Almost across the street from our apartment sits the craft beer bar Lovecraft Gastropub Lisboa.

Lovecraft Gastropub Lisboa

We dropped into Lovecraft Gastropub Lisboa shortly after opening (5:30 p.m. or so). There were plenty of seats at this time. This bar also had small sizes (25cl), making it easy to sample a decent amount of the selection. Beers on tap are mostly Lovecraft beers, but there is also a hefty bottle selection as well.

Their full menu (beer and food) can be viewed on Untappd. The main event on the food menu is burgers. Between the three of us we had two of the burgers (1 full size, one half size) and chouriço assado (Flame grilled Portuguese sausage). All were solid, although it was a lot of food for the three of us. Yes, we left some behind!

Now for why we were really here: Beer. They had 10 taps, almost all being Portuguese craft beers. At least four were Lovecraft beers. Overall, they were decent. Nothing crazy great, but drinkable, and a wide style selection of styles. As mentioned, you can delve into bottles and cans as well.

Speaking of Untappd, they have their menu displayed on an Untappd screen at the bar, so if you check in a beer from this location, you’ll appear along the bottom of the screen. This writer got a kick out of that.

Of note, they also sell bottles and cans for take out, so you can have something nice to drink back at the hotel once you put your “little one” to bed.

Day five in Lisbon: Alfama and Santa Catarina

This was our final full day in Lisbon before flying out the next afternoon.

COMOBA

Mama popped across the street to COMOBA to grab some breakfast to eat in the apartment. A blueberry muffin and some other pastries were on order. Let’s just say, it’s all quite over the top if you’re looking for a simple, quick breakfast. That said, it was quite yummy — and enough to get us going on our day.

Castelo de São Jorge

We saved what is likely Lisbon’s biggest tourist attraction for our final day: Castelo de São Jorge. Researching online you’ll see stories of long line ups at certain times of the day. The short of it is, yes, if you buy your tickets there you will likely encounter a line up. Save yourself lining up by purchasing your tickets online (from the official website – no reason to pay fees to another ticket site).

We arrived at around 9:45 a.m. on a Friday morning. At that time, we walked right in as we had our tickets purchased ahead of time. There are turnstiles where you simply scan your ticket bar code and then walk through (with staff to help, if needed). At this time there was a line up for those purchasing at the castle, so even at this time of day, we saved ourselves waiting.

There are number of things to take in, some of which we skipped entirely (anything indoors, basically). Just walking around the castle and along the walls was worth the visit according to this writer. We spent around 2 hours here, and that is without doing anything indoors.

The views of Lisbon are fantastic. The advantage of saving this attraction until later in your trip is that you can view the city from above – pointing out all the places you went in the days prior.

Views of Lisbon from Castelo de São Jorge.

Inside Castelo de São Jorge in Lisbon, Portugal

Portugal flag at Castelo de São Jorge.

Bonus: For the kids (and, anyone really) are the peacocks that walk around the grounds!

Peacock at Castelo de São Jorge.

Of note, during our visit one of the washroom areas was closed for repairs, leaving only one open, it seemed. The washrooms are not expansive so expect a possibly line up there.

Final note on line ups: When we exited (around 11:45 a.m.), the line up for ticket purchase was longer than when we arrived, while those with tickets already (i.e. purchased online) experienced little to no wait.

Gargoyle at Castelo de São Jorge in Lisbon, Portugal

Is Castelo de São Jorge worth visiting? Definitely – but ensure you purchase your tickets ahead of time.

By Nunes Ceramics

Walking down from the castle, there a number of little shops. We stopped in at By Nunes Ceramics. They sell only handcrafted items, mostly nice plates, bowls and such. There’s a large assortment of items, and the staff wraps everything up well so it makes it back home safely. Some of these items are now appear in our kitchen!

The crew was hungry and my predetermined craft beer places saved the day. A short walk down from the castle, just behind Sé de Lisboa, we arrived at Crafty Corner.

Crafty Corner

On a nice little street (Rua de São João da Praça – which runs into Cruzes da Sé), just on the side of Sé de Lisboa, is Crafty Corner, one of the Portuguese craft beer bars in Lisbon. Arriving not too long after noon, the place was empty. The bar has a mix of table styles – as well as some couches. The board showed 12 Portuguese craft beers to choose from. And, yes, flights (“tasting paddles”) are a good way to go (as this writer did). Overall the beers were decent – nothing mind blowing though. That said, a great space to hang out – and, I have to mention – the BBQ Pork Roll was fantastic. It may have been the best thing I ate in Lisbon – dare I say.

If you’re anywhere nearby (and you likely will be, as Castelo de São Jorge and Sé de Lisboa are not far) and need a break, this place is a winner.

We walked back to our accommodation in Cais do Sodré via a good chunk of the Tram 28E/12 line. This writer was still obsessed with taking (more) photos of the iconic yellow trams.

Lisbon tram number 12.

Vesuviano

Craving Italian food for our last Lisbon dinner (for whatever reason), we googled what was nearby to our accommodation (i.e. near Ascensor da Bica), and found Vesuviano. We didn’t realize this when we headed out, but the way it works is you order on your way in and then take a seat (there a few communal tables) and they bring it out to you. Everything is in disposable plates and such so it’s definitely friendly for take-out and delivery as well. And, yes, they have draught beer (Super Bock, of course!)

In not too long, our ravioli arrived. We ordered two different types (Ragu and Carbonara) – and shared them with our daughter. It was a great last dinner in Lisbon. If you’re nearby and need a quick (and yummy) bite, Vesuviano totally works for that.

On the way back to our apartment, we made another stop at Miradouro de Santa Catarina, for one final lookout view of Lisbon. Once again, there was a band playing to a large group sitting and enjoying the weather and views.

Day six in Lisbon: Cais do Sodré and Airport

Day six was basically getting a quick bite and then heading back home to Toronto. Could we have spent a couple more days in Lisbon? Easily. There were many things we didn’t get a chance to do – and even more if we didn’t have our little Downtown Kid with us. Yes, I just said that.

For a quick take-out breakfast it was Copenhagen Coffee Lab once again – and then we jumped on the metro to head to the airport.

Not to purposefully end on a negative note but, at least early afternoon on a Saturday, Lisbon’s airport isn’t the most pleasant place to be. No question, the airport wasn’t built for the kind of crowds that Lisbon experiences now. And this is in May, so I can’t imagine what the mid of summer looks like. We made it through check-in and security in maybe 30 minutes or so (not too bad) but once waiting at the gate, you’ll notice the crowds. For most gates, lines extend beyond the gate seating. That, and it’s fairy warm. There is an express security line that you can pay for. In our case, I’d argue it wouldn’t have been worth it. Of note, between security and the gates is a fairly large duty free section you have to walk through. Don’t doddle in there, as passport control is on the other side of that – before you get to your gate. Overall, the Lisbon airport is not the most pleasant experience, but a small inconvenience for enjoying a beautiful country with beautiful people.

Thanks, Lisbon, for having us!

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